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WINEMAKER'S PORTRAITS (II)


Le Domaine de La Mordorée, appellation Lirac, Tavel.

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« The land that we cultivate does not belong to us,
we are borrowing it from our children
».

That is the way Christophe DELORME introduces himself when he speaks about his work. A total respect for his terroir and the fruit it produces.

 

The objective is to maintain a natural ecosystem in his vineyards, avoiding all sorts of insecticides, fungicides or herbicides. Christophe believes in organic culture, in the use also of sophisticated insect population to fight vineyards diseases. An interesting balance between tradition and innovation, so that the land stays a living materials, and preserves its natural equilibrium. For the environment, but also to get ripen and healthy grapes which will lead to exceptional wines. And no doubt about that, this estate indeed produces one of the finest Liracs of the appellation.

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Harvest is done manually, the grapes are rigorously sorted in order to keep only the best, the yields, thanks to the cultural philosophy, are naturally low (45 to 25 hl/ha !).

100% of the grapes are destemmed, macerations are long and soft, and Christophe uses only natural yeast for the fermentation.

The result of the implementation of a know how of 20 years, of a commitment to excellence gives great wines, with superb concentration, plenty of fruits, soft tannins, fabulous intensity, richness and length.

 

The Tavel rosé « La Dame Rousse » (60% Grenache, et Syrah / Cinsault), has a nice acidity, is rich in white and red fruits (raspberry). Nice body and texture, very round. Definitivaly a great rosé !

Concerning the red Liracs, they are equivalent to many Chateauneuf du Pape : « La Dame Rousse », a blend of 50% Grenache and 50% Syrah) is dense, rich, full body, plenty of red-fruits (black-current, raspberry). « La Reine des Bois », 30 hl/ha, a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre in equal proportion, is aged for 30% in barriques, 30% in oak tanks, and 40% in stainless steel tanks. The wine has a dense ruby purple color, displays black berries and prune, smoky and spicy notes. Very well balanced despite the weight, the wine is very round, tannins are soft and elegant. The finish is superbe.
The estate also owns some parcels in Chateauneuf du Pape, averaging 60 years of age. Most probably one the best Chateauneuf du Pape been produced in this appellation. A lot could be said while tasting these wines according to their personality and features : « La Reine des Bois » et « La Plume du Peintre » (2003) : an exceptional concentration, marvellous body, a high load in texture and fruits, blackberries, kirsch, liquorice, crushed rocks, burned toasts. Complex wines, very elegant as well, with a finish that never ends !

The DELORME family produces also a white Lirac wine « La Reine des Bois » which has a profound aromatic intensity and shows a nice nose of white fruits, ripen pear.

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That is what we qualify as "terroir wines", which requires quite hardworking in the vineyards, helped by a talented winemaker !

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